In front of an audience of Halston loyalists (chief among them Halston Heritage creative director Sarah Jessica Parker) Marios Schwab delivered an impressive sophomore effort for the venerable house. This season the young designer stayed true to the brand’s iconic looks from the 70s with minimalist halter dresses, sensuous caftans and skin-tight sex appeal. Skin was a driving force behind the collection, appearing in small doses – a naked shoulder here and a small glimpse of the back there – which proved to be more provocative than baring it all. Although honoring the label’s namesake designer and his chic, pared-down approach, Schwab also pushed the envelope with new silhouettes and moody treatments. He managed to make allover sequins look contemporary and edgy with peeling paint textures and a blown-up orchid motif painted on top. Sequins also covered a sarong-like sheath that perfectly captured both the iconic past and a refreshing new direction for the brand: luxurious yet unfussy, youthful yet sophisticated.

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