Paris: After a buzzed-about debut in London last season, Hakaan Yildirim has already joined the majors and moved his show to Paris. Experimenting less with the tactile fabrics, feathers, and furs of last fall, Hakaan instead focused solely on the controlled silhouettes that are becoming his trademark. Monochromatically black or white, each look’s message was all about construction and shape. The peplum mini dresses and catsuits of last season returned, as did the cutouts and piecing. Crop-tops with hems that hit mid-rib made for a look that conjured 90s minimalism, especially when styled under a blazer. Visible from underneath sheer tees, pointy solid brassieres also recalled the 90s, as in Jean-Paul Gaultier’s iconic cone bra. Nicely tailored suits offered an alternative to the designer’s signature body-con styles. Column dresses and skirts, and turtleneck tops created long and lean lines. It seemed that Hakaan had done some fine tuning to his aesthetic since his last show. Although this collection was not a huge departure from his first, fits were perfected and complete looks were cleaner and more polished.

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