Haider Ackermann: Summer layering with an air of the Orient.


Paris: The early evening haze outside the Palais Galliera in Milan shone an intoxicating glow upon Haider Ackermann’s latest collection – “Danger” was the word emblazoned on the front of an indigo safari jacket and stitch-work along the waistline of slim cropped trousers. Dangerous indeed, Ackermann’s swarthy models, all long-limbed and bushy browed, had a certain sultry nonchalance about them, smouldering in their lavishly layered ensembles and gold Cuban heels. These weren’t your average boys about town, low slung skin-tight trousers in glistening lurex and slim pin-cotton, chest baring vests and light silk shirts. The waist was the focus of the show – obi belts, tie scarves and animal print belts snaked their way around slim hips, billowing kimono blouses and linen tunics, creating an exaggerated hourglass silhouette rendering the collection almost genderless. Summer, it seems, is Ackermann’s most seductive of seasons. – Anna Ross

Theme: Summer layering with an air of the Orient

Key Items: Breton shirt, Chalk stripe jacket, Wrap front shirt, Duster coat, Cargo gilet, Drainpipe trousers, Low front vest

Colour:  Indigo, Black, Bronze, Jade, Chalk blue, Khaki, Cream, Black

Materials and Trims: Linen, Cotton, Lurex, Suede, Silk, Drill, Wool, Cashmere, Satin

Print and Pattern: Slogan embroidery, Chalk stripes, Window pane checks

Accessories and Footwear:  Cuban heels, Animal skin slippers, Lace up pumps

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