Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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A VULNERABLE UTILITY
Paris: Haider Ackermann’s spectacular Spring show was full of drama and a newly delicate nature, something not usually on display for the confident and innovative designer. For F/W 13 he expanded upon this theme of fragility, inspired by the inner vulnerability of his self-assured muses. The results were a gorgeous mix of the military, the masculine and the structured wrapping Ackermann is known for, with nutria-lined aviator-style jackets and menswear overcoats, heavy tweed trousers and undone woolen tops. Oversized, off-the-shoulder fits, cozy cowl collars and elongated cuffs suggested the hidden vulnerability Ackermann was after, establishing a sense of a warrior woman hiding behind her clothes, protected by tough wrinkled leathers, big cargo pockets and a drab olive and charcoal palette. Utility, such a well-worn concept on the runway, looked entirely fresh here, done with a grace only heightened by several slim evening ensembles crafted from velvet or a graphic, Japanese-tinged silk print, their seductive drape as strong as it was soft.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Layered / Relaxed / Slim / Asymmetric / Strong shoulder / Long & lean
Color: Graphite / Olive / White / Black / Gunmetal / Coppery coco
Key Items: Flowing menswear overcoats lined in fur / Nipped waist cargo jackets / Full tweed menswear trousers / Leather aviator-style jackets / Undone tunics with folded and draped necklines / Shell tops with pocket peplums / Ribbed knit tops / Leather utility pants / Draped velvet column dresses
Materials: Tweed / Casual sturdy leathers / Woolen jacquards / Nutria fur / Velvet / Woven lame / Coated linen / Silk jacquard / Snake embossed leather / Printed kimono silk
Print + Pattern: Herringbone / Snakeskin / Mini tile repeats
Details + Trim: Fur linings / Epaulettes / Cargo pockets / Drawstrings / Raw collars / Folded and draped necklines / Parachute pockets / Snakeskin embossing / Ribbing / Elongated sleeves
Accessories + Footwear: Stacked platform boots with zippers around the ankles / Slouchy leather gaiter boots
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