Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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A POTENT SEDUCTION
Paris: Last Fall Haider Ackermann took an unexpected turn toward color, indulging in bright cobalt and marigold while sticking to his signature sharp tailoring. This season the shift is in the silhouette, introducing a beautifully diaphanous weight via airy polka dot chiffons and satin robes and pants. Whisper thin camisole gowns were layered over sharp trousers, often trailing behind with extended tails, and fluid pajama jackets were combined with tweed suiting or leather vests for a masculine effect. Classic boudoir details referenced both genders, with delicate scraps of lace and geometric menswear pajama motifs running throughout the collection. Silky and seductive but tempered by the power of strong shoulders and corset cinched waists, Ackermann loosened up for Spring without losing a drop of his potency.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Fluid / Lean / Tapered / Draped
Color: Greyish blue / Black / Rust / Midnight blue / White / Charcoal
Key Items: Pajama pants / Tweed coats & jackets / Sheer camisole dresses / Skinny cut trousers / Fluid silk robes / Delicate halter dresses / Sharp shoulder jackets / Shantung silk vests / Tapered leather trousers / Drape front halter tops
Materials: Tweed / Leather / Satin / Printed silk / Sheer chiffon / Lace / Shantung silk / Brocade
Print + Pattern: Netting print / Dots / Geometric repeats / Stripes
Details + Trim: Sharp shoulders / Leather trim / Lace panels / Trains / Exaggerated lapels / Draping
Accessories + Footwear: Strict corset belts / Braided gladiator strap stiletto heels / Mesh heels
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