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Haider Ackermann


A POTENT SEDUCTION
Paris: Last Fall Haider Ackermann took an unexpected turn toward color, indulging in bright cobalt and marigold while sticking to his signature sharp tailoring. This season the shift is in the silhouette, introducing a beautifully diaphanous weight via airy polka dot chiffons and satin robes and pants. Whisper thin camisole gowns were layered over sharp trousers, often trailing behind with extended tails, and fluid pajama jackets were combined with tweed suiting or leather vests for a masculine effect. Classic boudoir details referenced both genders, with delicate scraps of lace and geometric menswear pajama motifs running throughout the collection. Silky and seductive but tempered by the power of strong shoulders and corset cinched waists, Ackermann loosened up for Spring without losing a drop of his potency.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Fluid / Lean / Tapered / Draped

Color: Greyish blue / Black / Rust / Midnight blue / White / Charcoal

Key Items: Pajama pants / Tweed coats & jackets / Sheer camisole dresses / Skinny cut trousers / Fluid silk robes / Delicate halter dresses / Sharp shoulder jackets / Shantung silk vests / Tapered leather trousers / Drape front halter tops

Materials: Tweed / Leather / Satin / Printed silk / Sheer chiffon / Lace / Shantung silk / Brocade

Print + Pattern: Netting print / Dots / Geometric repeats / Stripes

Details + Trim: Sharp shoulders / Leather trim / Lace panels / Trains / Exaggerated lapels / Draping

Accessories + Footwear: Strict corset belts / Braided gladiator strap stiletto heels / Mesh heels

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK

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