Jan 04, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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COLOR HIM CONFIDENT
Paris: Haider Ackermann’s confident Fall collection was a palpable testament to his growing influence, an impact seen at retail and on the red carpet. This season, all of the classic Ackermann touches were there; wrapped construction, draped cowl necks and the strict hourglass silhouettes. But the confidence came when the designer toned things down and let his work speak for itself through simple molded wool jackets cinched with corset belts, stretch knit dresses gathered at the middle, or loose silk blouses tucked into wide leg trousers. Fall’s freedom with color belied Ackermann’s certainty as well, finding bold mustard yellow mixed with pumpkin and a rich shimmering bronze as contrast to matte cobalt blue. Leather proved a key material once again, and thick jackets updated with undulating hems, ruffled peplums and padded shoulders were among the collection’s many covetable investment pieces.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slim / Fitted / Hourglass / Boxy / Layered / Long / Lean
Color: Sage / Black / Olive / Chocolate / Burgundy / Tangerine / Bright mustard yellow / Dusty coral / Dove grey / Bronze / Crimson / Plum / Cobalt / Pumpkin
Key Items: Mid-calf skirts / Nipped-waist jackets / Turtlenecks / Silk tunic tops / Wide-leg trousers / Hourglass leather skirts / Fitted motorcycle jackets / Long sleeve knit dresses / Slim overcoats / Boxy cropped wool jackets / Pintucked trousers / Draped silk blouses
Materials: Cashmere / Silk / Wool / Jersey / Leather / Fur / Stretch knits / Satin
Details + Trim: Funnel necks / Ribbing / Peplums / Draping / Cowl necks / Oversize collars / Padding / Pintucking
Accessories + Footwear: Molded leather corset belts / Leather gloves / Ankle boots
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