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Haider Ackermann

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DIVINE DÉSHABILLE

Paris: For his current collection, up-and-comer Haider Ackermann built upon the handful of women’s looks he presented at June’s Pitti Uomo. The off-the-shoulder robes and silky pajama pants returned, this time mixed in with his signature leather pieces. The show opened with a rumpled black motorcycle jacket elongated into a dress with a high thigh slit that looked at once edgy and utterly feminine. The robe elements quickly appeared, with trapunto-stitched lapels and self-belts for blazers and shrugged on silk jackets with kimono-like sleeves. Vertical stripes were the only pattern, also referencing traditional loungewear styles. In contrast to his monochromatic past work, Ackermann introduced a range of color this season; rich jewel tones and eye-catching brights were compelling and on-trend. Camisole-inspired evening looks were skin-baring and seductive with plunging necklines and curving cutouts across the hips, but the most notable styles were the beautifully-styled separates: leather pants – shown in both slim and baggy varieties, robes, pleated long skirts and motorcycle jackets were mixed and matched for poetic ensembles. The most wearable of his collections thus far, these looks capture Ackermann’s avant garde aesthetic yet demonstrate a growing maturity that is sure to push the designer forward in seasons to come.

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