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Haider Ackermann

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LANGUID LEATHER

Paris: Rising star designer Haider Ackermann’s collection was his strongest yet. The draped leather pieces that have garnered him so much attention continued, this time with trapunto stitching that created a ribbed appearance and provided more structure. The pieces were used for slim vests with a hemline that came to a dramatic point and corset-like belts with asymmetrical zippers. The garments felt more straightforward than before, while retaining Ackermann’s darkly romantic aesthetic. Although his luxurious leather leggings made another appearance, slim tailored pants, like those used as part of a silvery suit, were a welcome new addition to bottoms. Jersey dresses and knit tops that swirled about the shoulders and neck looked easy to wear yet visually striking. Ackermann’s gorgeous evening looks were a highlight: lace-like laser-cut leather was used for gowns with an ultra-high slit, and floor-grazing dresses had a flattering mermaid silhouette. As the designer continues to refine his vision and find his voice, his clothing becomes both increasingly compelling and surprisingly wearable.

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