Jan 04, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Known for his artful drapery in supple materials, Haider Ackerman produced a sensuous meditation on the military uniform for S/S 10. In a neutral palette of gray, buff, tan, muted olive and deep navy, accented with saffron yellow, leathers and silks were wrapped, knotted and pieced together, creating draped army jackets, pajama-soft cargo pants, roll-hem shorts and fishtail skirts. Sleeves were often eliminated, and authentic elements like bellows pockets, epaulets and stand collars were all made soft and unaggressive. Many tops and dresses had knotted necklines or racer backs for a bare-shouldered halter effect. For all of the complicated layering, draping and tying, close inspection revealed beautiful, wearable clothes that will influence the shape of jackets, skirts and trousers next spring.
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