Gucci

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Milan: Frida Giannini faithfully pursues the notion of contemporary classicism each and every season, giving us reinterpretations of dapper English and Italian styles. For S/S 12, she took us into the confines of a gentleman’s club, but with perhaps younger, more exuberant members than centuries past. The designer said she was thinking of the posh world of Savile Row during the 1960s as epitomized by actor Michael Caine. Tailored jackets and suits in traditional menswear patterns got new life with novel colorways, and the introduction of active elements via quilted leather blousons and color-blocked nylon parkas felt right for a season full of casual clashes. The subtle evening looks were a rarity for a week usually so heavy with formal flair, but looked fresh paired with tartan pants and crisp white tuxedo shirts. Giannini’s members-only club seemed accessible enough — one can only hope the momentum continues for seasons ahead.  —Michael Fisher

Color: Black / White / Grey / Red / Merlot

Key Items: Prince of Wales plaid pants and suiting / Color-blocked parkas / Velvet tuxedo jackets / Marled grandpa cardigans / Leather blousons / Italian knits / V-neck sweaters / Tailored shorts

Materials: Wool / Cotton / Velvet / Silk

Details + Trim: Buckled poacher’s pockets on jackets / Suede padding on pants / Saddle stitching / Ribbed silk / “Micro quilting” / Contrast racing stripes on sweaters

Accessories + Footwear: Crocodile bags / Sunglasses with leather frames / Classic lace-up Oxfords and loafers in patent leather / Large leather shoppers / Bow ties

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