: One would not know that austerity measures were in effect from Gucci’s opening show at Milan Fashion Week. The ultimate of status brands played up its luxury heritage with a spring collection full of glamour and gilded surfaces. Creative director Frida Giannini plundered the house’s archives for lost treasures, from the label’s founding in the 20s to the nautical and safari fever of its 80s heyday. The 20s came roaring back to life in swishy drop-waisted dresses and eye-catching Art Deco geos that softened into animal spots and stripes. Meanwhile, cropped ship captain’s jackets and scarf silks printed with maritime motifs cashed in on the unstoppable nautical momentum. It was a decidedly more understated effort than last season’s fervently colored collection, without skimping on any of the opulence. Healthy sprinkles of gold threads, beads, chains, buttons and fringe ensured just that. – Nivara Xaykao

Silhouette: Dropped waist

Color: Kelly green / Navy / Gold / Tangerine

Key Items: Ship captain’s jacket / Two-toned trousers / Flapper dress / Scarf halter top

Print + Pattern: Vintage Gucci scarves / Maritime motifs / Leopard-giraffe-zebra collage / Art Deco stripes

Materials: Georgette / Cotton suitings

Details + Trim: Accordion pleats / Bugle beads / Chained brass buttons

Accessories + Footwear: Deco belts / Peep-toe pumps / Minaudieres / Crocodile hobo bags

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