Gucci officially redefined “frump length” with its S/S 16 collection


OK, first the bad news about Gucci. The show started more than an hour late. The collection reworked themes we’d already seen at the pre-summer 2016 show. And… well, that’s it really because the critics agreed it was worth the wait and those laces and embroideries were even better after a second showing.

Vogue Runway called Gucci creative chief Alessandro Michele “the Pied Piper of change” and “a risk-taker and revolutionary”. For the Telegraph it was “in every sense, fantastic”, while Glamour.com was simply busy telling its readers about “six details we’re going to copy from the Gucci show”.

In practice, all that meant another celebration of the 1970s geek but with a much more individual Michele-style spin.

The widely-used term “frump-length” may have been the key skirt length but nobody was suggesting the show was remotely frumpy.

Buyers and press loved its vintage edge that stayed just the right side of modern, prints (more than 20 of them), its contrasts (lace with zips), its embroideries (florals, snakes), it’s trompe l’oeil frills, bows and drapery, its sunray pleat skirts, its brocades, its crochet, its ric-rac binding, and its brocade pantsuits.

MORE: Read WGSN Catwalk Director Lizzy Bowring‘s analysis of the show here.

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