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Gucci enters new phase as Michele draws romantic line under Ford, Giannini eras

Gucci is different. Not different from every other high-end fashion label, but different from itself. It’s done the in-your-face glamour of the Tom Ford period and the crisp, feminine, archive-influenced chic of Frida Giannini. For Wednesday’s runway show, Alessandro Michele was in charge and the Gucci look was… romantic, or what Suzy Menkes described as “attic chic”.

She also said it was “not a triumph”, not that she didn’t like it. She – and the rest of the fashion press – gave a general thumbs-up to his subtle use of the brand’s heritage logos overlaid with grown-up looks that also felt young.

So what did we actually get? Victorian-styled long chemise dresses, mid-calf pleated skirts and botanical florals printed on tiered chiffon dresses that were reminiscent of early schoolgirl days where loved vintage pieces might be found in the attic.

The military redingotes and fur coats were trimmed with cuffs of coloured fur while the floral printed masculine suits nonetheless felt feminine.

The Gucci luxury was evident – from the bows attached with classic brooches, dropped earrings, studious spectacles, French berets and the Gucci loafers. So what exactly did we get?

WGSN’s Lizzy Bowring said: “There was none of the provocative allure that might have been expected, instead, a meticulously designed line-up with a distinct turn of the century feel. It all looked decidedly youthful in this quiet but impactful collection.”

The big question is whether all of this will appeal to Gucci’s particular brand of global client who has had several decades of a more upfront sexiness and a series of collections each with a very strong single message, compared to the more mashed-up approach Michele takes.

We await the next set of Gucci results eagerly.

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