May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Milan: Frida Giannini’s Gucci collection started Milan Fashion Week off with a powerful, sexually-charged romp. “The Gucci women seduces with her dangerous femininity,” read the show notes. There was certainly a surfeit of seductive danger in the lacquered python separates, bondage-y PVC turtlenecks, and severe, waist-nipping darts. Extended, sharp shoulders showed this woman meant business. Exoticism is an idea that is often present in a Gucci show, and this season Giannini included that element with prints and appliqués of the fronds of tropical plants. Also in the pattern department was a large-scale houndstooth that was repeated throughout the show, thus adding Giannini to the long list of designers that have used traditional menswear motifs this season. She closed her collection with a series of elaborately beaded and feathered gowns in sheer black mesh, the perfect example of her balance of seduction, opulence, and the exotic. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Constructed hourglass / Cocoon / A-line / Sharp or extended shoulders / Boxy
Color: Black / Burgundy / Magenta / Lime / Olive / Marigold / Gold / Burnt orange / Silvery blue / Cobalt / Periwinkle
Key Items: Nipped-waist skirt suits / Skin-tight sheaths / Cocoon-shaped coats / Printed slim pants
Materials: Matte wool suitings / Lacquered python / Shiny PVC / Slick leather / Wool crepe / Glossy haircalf / Taffeta / Metallic jacquard / Bouclé / Crushed fur / Shaggy fur / Liquid satin / Mesh
Print + Pattern: Tropical fronds / Houndstooth
Details + Trim: Turtlenecks / Portrait necklines / Rounded shoulders / Sharp shoulders / Waist-shaping darts / Fabric appliqués / Contrast panels / Peplums / Fur collars / Feathers / Paillettes
Accessories + Footwear: Cat eye sunglasses / Black leaf chokers / Python or suede gloves / Boxy doctor bags / Top-handle bags / Fishnet tights / Lace-up booties / Over-the-knee boots / Strappy satin sandals
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