Milan: For F/W 12, Frida Giannini did a dark, rich about-face from her bright and floral Pre-Fall Gucci collection, reveling in luxurious nighttime velvet, sheer silk and sensuous draped silhouettes. A refreshing covered-up sense of mystery permeated the presentation, with no sign of the more blatant body-consciousness usually de rigueur for the label. Instead Giannini seduced with slinky pajama separates like relaxed silk or chiffon trousers, elongated smoking jackets and chunky ribbed knits in shades of midnight, sage and plum. Structured ensembles incorporated military styling, pairing cropped leather peacoats or wool capes with brocade jodhpurs and crocodile riding boots, while adding an asymmetric row of brass buttons to a fitted jacquard dress. Florals did remain key for Giannini, but they were of the shadowy variety, surfacing in yellow from a deep navy background or as a tonal burnout on a diaphanous peasant blouse or sheer gown. Evening brought fur and feathers to see-through red-carpet pieces, but an emerald velvet wrap dress with shimmering leopard spots and a plunging neckline was the standout of the season.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Long / Boxy / Relaxed / Fitted / Tapered / Wrapped

Color: Black / Charcoal / Navy / Forest green / Mustard / Chocolate / Sage / Plum / Emerald / Olive / Teal

Key Items: Boxy military jackets / Floor length velvet skirts / Peacoats / Relaxed trousers / Sheer blouses / Long velvet tuxedo coats / Jodphurs / Fitted long-sleeve dresses / Slouchy cableknit sweaters / Capes / Pencil skirts / Peasant blouses / Silk pajama pants / Tapered leather trousers / Burnout velvet wrap dresses / Smoking jackets

Materials: Wool / Velvet / Jacquard / Leather / Silk / Chiffon / Tulle / Fur / Cashmere

Print + Pattern: Florals  / Animal prints

Details + Trim: Contrast buttons / Embroidery / Asymmetry / Ruffles / Draping / Contrast velvet sleeves / Fur trim / Contrast collars / Feather embellishments / Jeweled embroidery

Accessories + Footwear: Round sunglasses / Knee-high riding boots / Rope belts / Peep toe booties / Leather gloves / Oversized hobo bags / Sheer hosiery / Velvet belts / Doctor bags / Cuff bracelets / Ankle strap evening heels / Jeweled chokers / Jeweled barrettes / Satchel bags / Drop earrings


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