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Gucci

TORMENTED POETS
Milan: Gucci’s creative director Frida Giannini spoke of “tormented poets with an effortless attitude when it comes to mixing and creating personal style,” before the House’s F/W 12 show in Milan. The show notes referenced “Visconti grunge”, Caravaggio paintings and Leonardo DiCaprio playing teenage poet Arthur Rimbaud in Total Eclipse.  Lush fabrics that alluded to the 19th century, softly oversized pieces that made layering downright luxe, and shirts with a hint of dandy all resulted in a romantic swagger that came down the runway as one of the brand’s most acclaimed showings in seasons. Gutsy cardi-coats were thrown over a high-gorge suit, while a short naval jacket with gold buttons added just the right amount of attitude. A tonal rose print was subtle on suits and jackets, while splashes of peacock green and rich red added an extra decadent splash. Perfect for red carpet season, dark velvet jackets mimicked vintage-y flocked wallpaper, floral corsages adorned dinner jackets, and select jackets were pieced with a lustrous lasercut ponyskin. The shadowy beauty of the inky palette and crushed velvet added a darker side to the week’s consistent Victorian message.  —Michael Fisher

Color: Bottle green / Oxblood / Charcoal / Black / Grey-blue / Camel / Merlot / Chocolate

Key Items: Double-breasted jackets / Chunky Aran sweaters / Military jackets / Cardi-coats / Pleated trousers / Fur-trimmed pea coats / Great coats / Three-button suits

Materials: Velvet / Ponyskin / Lurex / Fur / Worsted wool / Floral jacqaurds / Silk

Details + Trim: Gold military buttons / Utility pockets on tailored jackets / Self-belts / Fur trim

Accessories + Footwear: Riding boots / Tapestry carpet bags / Exotic skin luggage and briefcases / Silk evening scarves

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