May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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NEW YORK…With their F/W 08/09 show, the duo committed to following up on one of the distinct design directions to come out of New York last S/S 08, as seen at Michael Kors and DKNY amongst others, it’s a sort of ’70s inspired homage to Bianca Jagger and the other denizens of Studio 54. Floppy hats were shown topping off looks that embraced a hip socialite-meets-rock chick mood. Standouts included a little metallic wool suit with A-Line mini shown with very high boots, a sport-luxe look that included a black off-the-shoulder fur chemise and skinny skirt, and a leopard tank dress in a very pale shade. Finally, a silk dress with leafy print in an intense shade of green really popped off the runway.
This week is so “all about grey” that the variety of vegetation greens that have emerged from many of the New York designers has been such a welcome relief! It was present in Catherine Malandrino’s collection; used for some pieces that looked reminiscent of the Prada and Alberta Ferretti ‘chia pet’ looks of S/S 08, for example, an organza leaf bolero was shown over a below-the-knee sheath with lattice work hem. A flowing Empire-waisted evening gown that worked shades of emerald and cobalt together provided a show-stopping conclusion. In other places the collection continued the Deco theme prevalent for the past few seasons, showing a number of ‘thirties looking draped styles against a backdrop of fan-pleated silk.
More of this woodsy looking green at Doo-ri. It showed up on hairy mohair sweaters, on silk blouses and on coats. The same sort of luxe-sport references seen earlier in the week at Lela Rose played here also, with a slim version of a puffa jacket worn over a cobalt satin blouse and slender printed skirt. Doo-ri, known for her expertise with jersey and draping, probably reached out to a wider audience by working with both wovens and sweater knits this time out.
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