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Granite Construction

Milan…Jil Sander

For F/W 09/10, the genius that is Raf Simons continued his exploration of the elements of construction and how they affect the concept of men’s tailoring. One of the silhouettes he presented was almost Edwardian: a high-closing, longer jacket with a waist so suppressed it produced an hourglass effect. Rounded hips were echoed in the rounded shoulders of tops, and in seaming that rounded out the backsides of trousers. Many of the exits had subtle trims of black velvet with a seductively viscous sheen. Also shown were granite-like tweeds, shearlings, wools striated like chenille, and by far the strongest pieces, extraordinary jacquards that looked like mineral strata, which is how open rock formations appear when broken open, bursting with colors of the deep earth. The simple assumption was that they were hand-painted, but they were actually woven. As always, Simons continues to amaze with his immense appreciation of fabrics. Even the ones that looked as hard and unforgiving as the construction materials they tried to emulate were actually surprisingly soft. At the end, most attendees were astonished at the extreme paradoxes Simons presented, as indicated in the show notes: “sobriety and sensuality, rigor and release.”

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