Paris: The absence of black is the most obvious change in Riccardo Tisci’s Pre-Fall collection for Givenchy. The tone had been something of a signature for the designer, helping to create the goth-chic looks for which the label has come to be known. A range of warm, olive-infused browns were the go-to neutrals this season, softening Tisci’s edgy aesthetic, but the precise, angular cuts mixed with ethereal sheers remained. Leather and firm wools were sculpted into architectural jackets and coats, and flat wool suitings were used for pleated skirts and tailored pantsuits. Lace tops, chiffon tiered floor-length skirts, tufts of feathers and elegant draped tops provided a feminine counterpoint to the more severe pieces. The new brown-based palette – mixed with cream, mulberry and lilac – suggested that Tisci is looking to breathe new life into the darkly romantic pieces that have garnered him a loyal following. Though his fans will probably never abandon black, these new pieces are a fresh and edgy alternative to the status quo.

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