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Paris: Citing skiing and scuba diving as two of the inspirations behind his collection, Riccardo Tisci mixed the sporty references with his signature brand of Goth-chic. The obvious elements associated with each sport were present: neoprene was used for black pants and skirts with a fold-down zippered waist that looked like a partially unzipped scuba suit, and snowflake covered sweaters in a graphically reorganized Fair Isle pattern embodied the alpine influences. Tisci’s third inspiration was the Bauhaus, which – combined with his pervasive edgy aesthetic – helped make the sports references work. The traditional Bauhaus colors of tan, black and striking red were the pillars of the limited palette, and sharply tailored jackets and pants echoed the movement as well. Tisci’s work felt most confident when in familiar territory with delicate yet moody pieces like a red lace on cream leather dress and lace tops with molded yolks. Even with seemingly incongruent reference points, the designer fearlessly pulled it all together, and continued to develop the darkly seductive pieces that have garnered him such a large following.

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