Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Riccardo Tisci has made his way into fashion’s top tier with an edgy brand of cool that appeals to rocker chicks and chic editors alike. This season’s mix of striking graphics and soft femininity is sure to appeal to his fans and expand his base of admirers. His first passage of black and white stripes was attention-grabbing and high-energy, starting out with a striped fitted blazer over a white top with a diamond-shaped ruffle and black panels. His pants this season were must-have, flattering with roomy hips and elongating with tapered legs. While many other designers experimented with tribal prints this season, Tisci’s variety swirled and whirled into the realm of the psychedelic, giving them an extra layer of meaning. The prints were used head-to-toe (even including the shoes) for the more extreme looks, or paired with monochrome separates, as in a kicky pleated black leather miniskirt. Without his finesse, a parade of draped tulle dresses in soft yellow and nude might have seemed incongruous, but Tisci injected the pieces with intriguing details like appliqués that looked like jeweled barnacles and shaved tulle strips that created a soft yoke. Tisci ended the Givenchy show with muse Mariacarla Boscono wearing a sublime handkerchief-pleated dress in a white-on-white version of the tribal print, a perfect summation of collection’s sophisticated narrative.
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