May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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FAREWELL TO FLOUNCES
New York: Riccardo Tisci bid farewell to the flounces he so memorably offered for Spring, focusing instead on clean lines and angular shapes for Pre-Fall. The designer cited Italian architect Gio Ponti and fashion designer Walter Albini as influences behind the collection. Both Ponti and Albini used geometric shapes in their work, and those shapes appeared here, pieced or appliquéd onto the spare shifts, slim pants, and simple coats of the collection. A killer fur blouson jacket used dyeing and piecing to achieve the patterns. The flounces made a quick reappearance for evening, but this time Tisci handled them differently. Instead of the simple cascades seen for S/S 13, these flounces were bunched together and irregular. It reminded one of something Rei Kawakubo would do. The clean lines and geometrics return for the final two looks of the offering, a pair of one-shoulder gowns with diamond shapes running down their sides. Spring’s feminine mood, though well-received and certainly appealing, was a departure for Tisci, and his current collection seems to be a return to form.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Columnar / Boxy / Long over long / Asymmetrical / Constructed hourglass
Color: Black / White / Sandy brown / Chocolate brown / Camel / Primary colors / Heather grey / Ice blue / Royal blue
Key Items: Pieced fur jacket / Cowhide pants / Geometric patterned shifts / Peplum fur coats
Materials: Cowhide / Leather / Plush fur / Matte silks / Bonded silks / Grey flannel / Cotton jersey / Nylon / Fine lace
Print + Pattern: Geometrics / Diamonds / 80s-inspired graphics / Religious images
Details + Trim: Peplums / Pieces / Side slits / Contrast collars / Paillettes / Flounces / Ruching
Accessories + Footwear: Zipped leather pouches / Flat leather sneakers / Flat oxfords / Simple ankle boots / Flat two-strap sandals
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