Givenchy Couture Fall/Winter 2012


Paris: Couture is a medium in which designers allow themselves to indulge in their most obsessive techniques and their most extravagant ideas, but Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci takes the obsessiveness and extravagance to another level. This season, the designer achieved such feats as beading three-dimensional baroque designs onto a sweater, weaving fine strips of leather into the bodice of a dress and its decorative embellishments, creating intricate designs with fringe made from tiny beads, and shaving patterns onto the front panels of a floor-length fur coat. This display of enormous technical skill set him apart from the designers that are still toying with ruffles and sequins. The two simple fur-bodiced dresses seemed an exquisite exercise in restraint. Tisci kept with shapes he has shown in the past; the dropped-rise pants, wide angular sleeves and downward-curved bodices will all look familiar to followers of the label. But the over-the-top details and luxurious fabrics make them as desirable as ever. In the first image of the collection, Joan Smalls hold the leash of a fierce-looking German shepherd, and the blood-red crystals peeking through some of the fur pieces made them resemble a wounded animal. Was there some sort of comment on hunting or animal violence here? The suggestion of a darker element is a Tisci signature and makes his collections all the more intriguing. –Joanna Manganaro

Silhouette: Subtle A-line

Color: Soft beige / Chocolate brown / Blood red / Black / Taupe

Key Items: Beaded cape / Fur coat / Beaded sweater

Materials: Mink / Velvet / Leather / Cashmere / Wool

Print + Pattern: Ombré

Details + Trim: Intricate beading / Beaded fringe / Woven leather / Gem embellishments / Shaved fur / Laser cutouts

Accessories + Footwear: Extra-large rimless wraparound sunglasses / Open-toe tall boots


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