16 hours ago | By Nigel Taylor
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DARK HORSE RISING
Paris: Judging by this season’s Givenchy runway, Riccardo Tisci wasn’t finished with the equestrian theme of his Pre-Fall collection, a presentation centered on jodhpurs, riding boots and cutaway coats. But the F/W 12 version of these ideas went dark in typical Tisci fashion, achieving a bold confidence and edgy sexuality. Leather was the primary raw material, sculpted into rigorously fitted blazers, severe turtlenecks and lace-up a-line halter dresses, while fur looked new cut into short-sleeve patchwork tops with elongated tails. Shiny satin complimented all the slick animal skins, and fluid tapered trousers paired with matching dolman sleeve blouses and skinny scarves became feminine suiting. Tisci kept the hoof boots when transitioning to evening, which gave ample contrast to delicate, electric-hued spaghetti-strap dresses embroidered and jeweled for a subversively garish effect.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Tailored / Fitted / Body-conscious / Slim / Flared / Tapered
Color: Black / Gold / Caramel / Olive / Poppy / Chocolate / Tangerine / Electric purple / Ice blue / White / Crimson
Key Items: Leather mini-shorts / Nipped-waist blazers / Sculpted leather turtleneck dresses / Leather halter dresses / Spaghetti strap lingerie dresses / Pleated jodhpurs / Cropped fur jackets / Shiny satin blouses / Double-breasted coats / Fur vests / Dolman sleeve tops / Pleated leather skirts
Materials: Velvet / Leather / Fur / Ponyhair / Silk / Wool / Lace / Chiffon / Cashmere
Print + Pattern: Color-blocking
Details + Trim: Pleating / Appliqué / Jewel embroidery / Quilting / Leather trim / Lacing / Patchwork / Contrast piping / Slits / Lace embroidery / Notch collars
Accessories + Footwear: Leather gloves / Thigh-high boots / Skinny satin scarves / Metal disc earrings / Silk chokers / Corset belts
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