Jun 11, 2018 | By Nick Paget
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A LIGHTER HAND
Paris: In recent seasons, Riccardo Tisci has had much success with print and embellishment. No one can forget that ubiquitous gorilla tee or the lovely bird of paradise print. His F/W 12 couture collection featured elaborately woven leather and copious amounts of beaded fringe, and resort was all about piecing. But Tisci seemed to brush all that aside with a clean, sophisticated collection that relied on beautiful fabrics and elegant details. Cascading ruffles (similar to those seen at Balenciaga) decorated necklines and sleeves, adding soft volume and femininity. Tisci cited sixties couture as an inspiration, and cocoon silhouettes evidenced the reference. He also borrowed high collars and the mostly black and white palette from nun’s habits. Though this was by far his breeziest collection to date, Tisci included a touch of his characteristic severity with tough metal chokers and appliqués. Tisci’s choice of simplicity over complexity and softness over edginess signaled a new era for the designer and made for an intensely desirable collection. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Columnar / Cocoon / Asymmetrical / Long layers
Color: Pale blue / Black / White / Lilac
Key Items: Ruffled dresses / Double-breasted blazers / Slim pants
Materials: Radzimir / Taffeta / Moiré / Duchesse satin / Organza / Lace
Details + Trim: Ruffles / High collars / Single sleeves / Double-breasted closures / Layering / Rounded shoulder / Metal strip embellishments
Accessories + Footwear: Metal chokers / Clear ankle-strap mules
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