May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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London: After showing in Paris for the past two seasons, Britain’s golden-boy Giles Deacon presented his S/S 11 collection back in his native London. Recently appointed the creative director of Ungaro, the designer was thrilled to be working on his own line back on home turf, a sentiment that was evidenced by this season’s exuberantly so-bad-it’s-good, over-the-top looks. A true mash-up of decades, Giles cited the early 90s as his inspiration this season, but exaggerated 80s party dresses and pin-up style underwire tops and pencil skirts hinted at a freeform jaunt though the latter half of the last century. Deacon’s subversive tone was apparent throughout the collection, but especially where hot pinks, faded greens and teal blues created an oddly clashing harmony on quirky intarsia sweaters and knit dresses. Pedestrian floral prints, which appeared on an array of dresses as well as trousers, were pepped up with the occasional eyeball graphic, and upon closer inspection an “X” motif was created from the intersection of two layered band-aids. Topping it all off with his cat-eye shades and glam-princess glittery makeup, Giles continues to develop his utterly unique voice.
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