Jul 04, 2017 | By Lizzy Bowring
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New York: Giles Deacon is no stranger to provocative themes – the perverse sculptures of Allen Jones were a reference for his S/S 13 collection – but he pushed the boundaries with his current Pre-Fall offering, drawing inspiration from the erstwhile British fetish magazine, AtomAge. The magazine often featured women in Latex bondage wear placed in front of serene natural landscapes. The juxtaposition of these two opposing forces – synthetic and natural – offered Deacon a wealth of concepts to explore. A photorealistic landscape print was covered with thick-lined drawings of red-lipped seductresses with spiked headbands. The other print in the show looked like dots, but closer inspection revealed they were actually ventilators from fetish masks. Prim garments, such as bow blouses, poet-sleeved tops, and knee-length dresses countered all the seductive references. There were plenty of wearable pieces here, and their subtle sexy elements made them all the more appealing.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Billowy / Tent / A-line / Fit-and-flare / Empire waist
Color: Black / White / Charcoal / Lipstick red / Melon
Key Items: Printed bow blouses / Poet-sleeved button-up shirts / Tunic pant sets / Peasant dresses
Materials: Crisp cotton / Silk crepe / Heavy woven Lurex / Plush fur / Jacquard / Matte suiting
Print + Pattern: Photorealistic landscapes with graffiti figures / Fetish ventilators impersonating dots
Details + Trim: Poet sleeves / Empire waists / Pleating / Cap sleeves / Bow necklines / Metal beads / Gold buttons
Accessories + Footwear: Opaque tights / Platform lace-up booties
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