May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Milan: Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi are the latest designers tasked with rescuing the ailing house of Gianfranco Ferré after a brief stint by Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. The newcomers started with a blank slate this season, literally, as they took rectangles of supple white fabrics and wrapped, draped and tucked them into various asymmetrical shifts that can only be described as post-apocalyptic togas. Japanese-inspired surplice details and quilted collars enhanced the tranquil mood. At the core, strands of the label’s DNA remained: Sleek tailored suits picked up where Aquilano and Rimondi left off, and Ferré’s signature white shirts materialized in trench coat-inspired frocks and silky jumpsuits. Back cutouts, strategically bared shoulders and thigh-high slits, as well as a few snazzy (if ill-advised) feather-trimmed dresses, marked a point of departure for the brand, expressing a burgeoning sense of sensuality and splendor that may work well for Ferré. – Nivara Xaykao
Silhouette: Columnar / Cocoon / Asymmetrical shoulders
Color: Shades of white / Silver-gold / Porcelain pink / Cerise / Fuchsia
Key Items: One-shoulder shirt / Shirt jumpsuit / Slit skirt / Draped halter tunic / Trench coat dress / Judo jacket
Materials: Washed silk / Cotton suitings / Silk crepe / Double-faced satin / Crocodile
Details + Trim: High-low hems / Draped back cutouts / Quilted inset collars / Storm flaps / Ostrich feathers / Brushed metal hardware
Accessories + Footwear: Loop-and-tuck leather belt / Ankle-strap sandals
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