Sep 21, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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Milan: In keeping with the architectural legacy of Gianfranco Ferré, structured shapes characterized the house’s latest collection, designed by Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. The defined lines and modern craft of the Bauhaus movement, along with the shapes of traditional Samurai costumes, were inspirations behind the current collection. The Samurai influences helped to shape the outerwear — long coats with widened sleeves were cinched in with aggressive-looking belts, but Bauhaus was the more obvious muse. Darts were delineated with contrasting fabric, drawing attention to the garments’ structure, and contrasting sleeves in leather or fur further sectioned off the body. As the show drew to a close, the designers introduced pieces made from intricately woven leather, worn with engineered knit tops whose dimensional ribs curved to echo the body beneath. Straight skirts with center slits and matching jackets were molded of the masterfully-crafted leather, demonstrating the design duo’s remarkable technical skill and sophisticated taste.
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