Jun 11, 2018 | By Nick Paget
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Paris: This season marks Giambattista Valli’s fifth anniversary in the business, and with that milestone the designer seemed to turn over a new leaf. Although Valli’s work has sometimes suffered from heavy-handed references to the haute couture 1940s-50s, here the designer more successfully turned to the minimal shapes of 1960s André Courrèges. Valli replaced the colorful froufrou looks that have defined his aesthetic with a strict, almost severe collection presented in a largely monastic palette of blacks, whites, and grays. The show opened with a series of gamine looks in felted gray wool that slowly evolved to display decoration in the form of jeweled necklines, arms and hems. Shots of neon orange, red and pink enlivened the proceedings, and the goatskin that has been popping up all over Paris manifested itself here as shaggy short skirts and boxy coats. Although some of the more stark looks felt a bit flat, this was one of Valli’s best collections to date. A white vest paired with black cigarette pants featuring a petal-shaped waistband was couture-like in its execution, and a trio of charming evening gowns consisting of floor-grazing tulip skirts and decorated tops would have made Hubert de Givenchy smile.
Color: Black / White / Neon yellow / Slate / Poppy / Gold / Charcoal / Pink
Key Items: Capes / Sleeveless tops / Cigarette pants / Shift dresses / Tulip skirts / Tailored coats / Evening gowns
Materials: Persian lambskin / Goatskin / Silk / Wool / Tulle
Print + Pattern: Exploded florals / Stripes
Details + Trim: Jeweled necklines / Jeweled waistbands / Jet embroidery / Padded shoulders / Goatskin
Accessories + Footwear: Flat Velcro strap flats / Patent leather boots / Jet beaded boots / Beaded flats / Jeweled necklaces
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