Aug 03, 2019 | By Sidney Morgan-Petro
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Feb 27, 2015
Milan: Karl Lagerfeld took the idea of protection and melded this with pure geometry, volumes, linear structures and a distinct angular adaptation via pieced panels. It was as if Lagerfeld had taken a piece of square paper and applied architectural lines and geometrical cuts and molded them around a silhouette adding plush volumes as a finale. The effect was striking. The colour splicing and the streamlined shapes of the two tone coat, the simplicity of the dramatic leather sheath and the combination of materials in pants and dresses was incredible. Yet, there was a slight alpine feel in certain pieces – the trapeze shaped bib that was fastened with oversized buttons as were the high waisted coats offered over lean columnar shapes – dissected in black compact wool and layered with squares of glossy leather. The down comforter outerwear pieces were voluminous to the extreme but added an extra dimension to the linear structures. The accessories were perfect, from Perspex heeled booties to the 2Jour bag including the bird-of-paradise flower – it too a precision of nature. – Lizzy Bowring
Theme: Geometric precision
Key Items: Oversized Caban / High necked slim leather dress / Stiff white shirt / High waist dress / Short leather shift dresses / Pencil slim mid-calf skirts / Cropped trousers / Fur trimmed coat / Cropped pinafore / Pinafore dress / Square cut dresses / Leather shell / Enormous puffer coat
Colour: White / Cream / Red / Cognac / Black / Camel / Biscuit
Trims and Materials: Leather / Plush furs / Mongolian lamb / Cotton / Snaps / Oversized buttons / Mohair / Compact wool
Print and Pattern: Abstracts inspired by the 20th-century Swiss artist Sophie Taeuber-Arp
Footwear and Accessories: High wedged bootie with Perspex heels / Flat clutch / 2Jour bag / Fur trimmed gloves / Head bands
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