Gender Unidentified at Vivienne Westwood

Paris: You couldn’t help but pay attention as the screeching, hard-core sounds of German punk-rock duo Die Hartjungs filled the basement of a tinsel filled office building at Vivienne Westwood’s fall collection. The show was entitled “Unisex”: so it came as no surprise when a line up of suit clad women and men in tunic dresses stormed the runway. Broad shoulders, oversize cropped pants and elongated silhouettes emphasised the gender-unidentified theme in tailored separates whilst “bisexual” hula-skirts added her sense of humour and new proportions worn around trousers. Elsewhere, textured knits were made from “bio-friendly” sheep’s wool, stitched and crocheted together – a reference to “shepards and sumerians” she stated. Only Vivienne Westwood could make this work: the drape, the proportions, the mixed themes, the eccentricity. Westwood has established a clear identity, with a strong and empowering message. – Anna Ross

Theme: Gender Unidentified

Key items: Hula Skirts / Oversized mens jacket / Wide leg cropped trousers / Mixed patchwork knitwear / Asymmetric draped dress

Colour: Blood Orange / Dusty brown / Slate grey / Oyster shell / Hawaii red / Sulphuric yellow / Bronze / Violet

Print & pattern: Autumn brocade / Tartan / Oversize Hawaiian / Dusty florals

Materials & trim: Bio friendly sheep’s wool / Linen / Cotton canvas / Worsted wool / Satin / Sanded silk

Footwear & Accessories: Pirate belts / Mad-hatters hat / Fringed loafers / Graffiti boots

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