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Gaspard Yurkievich

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TRIBAL TAILORED

Paris: Both soft and strong, both masculine and feminine — the Gaspard Yurkievich show seemed to rely on extremes to balance each other. The juxtapositions made for an interesting and inspiring collection that conjured new looks out of old styles. Feminine details like peplums and puff sleeves were added to power suiting and trench coat silhouettes, and exposed zippers added a rugged quality to polished, ladylike pieces. A huge feather earring hanging from one ear felt tribal, and was unexpected when worn with structured career suits. Femme pointelle knee socks, bubble-printed chiffon, and whispery sheer blouses softened harsh eye makeup and masculine pompadour updos. It didn’t seem that Yurkievich was trying to create something completely new, but rather to reinvent looks by slightly re-working pieces. The use of fur breathed new life into several items: fur sleeves (that had been dip-dyed) exemplified the popular contrast-sleeve look of the season, but also added a tribal element to a trench. When cut from luxe astrakhan, a puffer vest looked new again, and delicate fur necklaces looked new, period. The collection could have been better edited, as there were a few slightly awkward evening ensembles, but most of the ideas paid off. Playing it safe can be pretty, but is never as inspiring as the results of risks taken. In Yurkievich’s case, experimentation yielded more good than bad.

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