Gary Graham



New York: Although Gary Graham culls inspiration from an extensive collection of vintage clothing and memorabilia each season, his clothes never openly reference any particular time or place, always looking completely him and of-the-moment. This season, inspired by old photographs of rural Pennsylvania, Graham imagined a city girl who had just been dropped off in the middle of a country forest, with a treasure chest full of old Ziegfeld Follies costumes, sleek downtown garb, a few pieces yanked from the boyfriend and a sewing kit in tow. The result was a mash-up of sketchy yet ornate embroidery, used for sheaths and bolero jackets; moody photorealistic prints of the woods combined with a faded chinoiserie and an amalgamation of jodhpurs, leggings, harem shorts and shirtdresses – often worn all at once. Many designers, new and established, have a deconstructed-vintage aesthetic, but where Graham shines is in his craftsmanship and styling. The most successful looks this season were both practical and polished – an olive drab jacket worn over a seafoam chiffon dress, a bolero over alternating loose and fitted layers and a smock worn over a trapeze dress are all sure to inspire his devoted army of romantic dreamers.

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