WGSN’s Catwalks Director picks her top show from Day One of New York Fashion Week
New York: Gary Graham has become a designer known for his dedication as a fine artist with a passion for historical references. Consequently, within a setting that resembled a corner of some medieval garden, Graham approached the spring summer season with a collection that was imbued with historical references, traditional craftsmanship, coupled with his fine art sensibility. Individuality is key to his presentations and here, he blended and juxtaposed into intricate pieces, influences from Buddhist Iranian carpets, and eclectic mixes of Jack Smith with Victorian pieces. The designer synthesized odd items into one outfit – puffed sleeves in ticking stripes juxtaposed with vintage tapestry weaves and worn with a sheer georgette skirt and sleeveless knitted cardigan. Here, the fabric mix was his leitmotif for the collection; Graham had been reading Chloé Griffin’s oral history of Cookie Mueller, consequently drawing inspiration from the book’s descriptions of a thrift store. Old world pieces came with frayed edges, hand embroideries and an infinite attention to detail that gave a distinct artisanal feel.
Theme: History mixed with Traditional references
Key Items: Victorian blouses, Full length skirts, Military jackets, Multi-buttoned cardigan, Hand knitted vests, Oversized white shirts, Asymmetrically cut and pieced skirts, Slip dress, Victorian cape
Key Colour: Ivory, Gold, White, Black
Print and Pattern: Mock heraldic prints, Ticking stripes, Vintage tapestries
Materials and Trims: Broderie, Handmade lace, Brocades, Silk georgette, Asian inspired tapestries
Accessories and Footwear: Knitted Victorian hats, Parasols, Ankle socks, Leather gloves, Woven slippers