Jul 04, 2017 | By Lizzy Bowring
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Feb 22, 2015
London: Gareth Pugh marked a decade of design by returning to London and staging a spectacle at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Opening with a film, shot by long-time collaborator Ruth Hogben, he plunged the great hall into blackness and projected a lone female figure, bathed in eerie red light – symbolising both love and war. Silently she crudely cut off her long blonde hair, and ‘anointed’ herself, smearing the red cross of Saint George, over her face, heralding the start of his crusade. Pugh has never been conformist, nor led by trends or season. His warriors march to their own beat and stormed out crowned like Britannica, hair scalped back into high ponytails, the red cross of St. George again smeared over their faces. Fierce full floor length gowns, leather body armour, thorn like layered coats (in fact hand-cut plastic drinking straws), were cut with military precision and inspiration – the double-breasted silver buttoned capes, and the chainmail links added to the intensity. Chants of ‘go on, go go’ faded in and out of the soundtrack, and looking past the battle ready warrior was his resolute lack of compromise, with exaggerated silhouettes, exquisite cuts, and covetable pieces. – Camilla Morton
Theme: The War of Britannia
Key Items: St. George’s Cross / Armour / Floor lenth gowns / Padded aromour -like jackets / Layered coats / Cashmere cape / Leather trousers
Materials and Trim: Fur / Thorns / Cashmere/ Silks / Leather / Drinking straws!
Print and Pattern: Black
Accessories and Footwear: Black Gloves / Military riding boots
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