May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: Gothic inspirations never go away for Gareth Pugh and what is more classically creepy than a mad-scientist toiling away in an isolated, wintery retreat? Switching gears from last season’s modified stab at romanticism Pugh was back to austere, tailored drama with elongated white lab coats edged in a stark branch print layered over full a-line gowns—one part twisted doctor, one part Bride of Frankenstein. The designer’s beloved wide portrait collars and kimono sleeves remained pivotal throughout, but canvas and matte, bonded leather gave the silhouette a less formal feeling. Several simple t-shirt tunics, some with self belts, could even be called “normal,” their slim cut bodies pressing voluminous skirts into an elegant mermaid shape. But as the presentation progressed, Pugh’s volume grew and grew, culminating in a series of garbage bag fringe gowns befitting his F/W 13 horror movie heroine. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Fitted / Long a-line / Mermaid / Asymmetric
Color: Black / White / Concrete / Royal blue / Gunmetal
Key Items: Dramatically full floor-length skirts / Tailored lab coats / Sleeveless wrapped coats / Bonded leather tunics / Ribbed fur coats / Mermaid gowns / Leather kimono coats / Flared trousers
Materials: Canvas / Bonded leather / Tweed / Duchess satin / Mink / Nylon / Basketweave plastic
Print + Pattern: Graphic branches / Subtle ribbed stripes
Details + Trim: Plastic fringe / Stiff and wide portrait collars / Kimono sleeves / Zippers / Leather sleeves / Wrapped necklines / Exaggerated cuffs / Self belts / Ribbed trim / Fur trim
Accessories + Footwear: Long leather gloves
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