Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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A GOTHIC ORNITHOLOGIST
Paris: Gareth Pugh’s theatrical collections have evened out in the past few seasons, featuring avant-garde pieces that are actually wearable. S/S 13 opened on several dark leather geisha looks although the stated inspiration for the season was Latin American cockfighting. Further along, avian details could be seen in a series of shredded ruffle dresses, as well as the raw edges of an elegant draped front jacket. These soft constructions worked best for Pugh and turtleneck sheaths with elongated fringe sleeves or blouses embellished with cascading ruffled bibs could easily translate off the runway. Still experimental, Spring was a lovely and gentle step in the right direction for this evolving young designer.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Triangular / Tapered / Flared / Long & lean
Color: Black / Chocolate / Vermillion / Dove grey / Arctic white / Fire-engine red
Key Items: Exaggerated wrap jackets / Flare trousers / Leather leggings / Wrapped kimono dresses / Corset tops / Capes / Brocade trousers / Halter dresses / Ruffle front blouses
Materials: Leather / Duchesse satin / Perforated leather / Padded brocade / Draped silk
Print + Pattern: Tonal brocade swirls
Details + Trim: Flared sleeves / Ruffles / Cowl necks / Draping / Raw edges / Shredding / Fringe / Asymmetry
Accessories + Footwear: Chopstick hair accessories / Peaked corset belts / Peep toe platform boots
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