May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: Gareth Pugh has always embraced technology and all things futuristic, and this season the young talent presented his collection in a jarring yet beautiful, sci-fi-inspired video rather than a runway show, making the catwalk seem clunky and old. Is this the end of the runway as we know it? Directed by up-and-comer and SHOWstudio collaborator Ruth Hogben, the video featured veteran model Kristen McMenamy spinning, running and contorting in the striking looks. Look-book-style photos of the collection were released after, allowing for closer examination of the intricate pieces. Paneled dove grey leggings and a matching angular vest were perhaps nothing new from the designer, but their precision and fit hinted at a new level of production. An eye-popping mirror-image geometric print – shown both in black and white and a softer grey and white – seemed to be a riff on his own S/S 07 collection (which featured a black and white checkerboard motif); Pugh’s new digitally manipulated version shows just how far he’s come. A series of wide-leg pants were on-trend, but took on the designer’s space-age aesthetic in cool grey stiff fabric that mimicked brushed steel. The last looks, made from twisted strips of ultra-shiny silver material that looked like liquid chrome, were formed into bell-skirted dresses and a billowy coat. The innovative format and the brilliant and precise looks were an impressive turn from this promising designer, and the buzz that his show caused is testament to his influence on fashion as a whole.
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