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Gareth Pugh

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DARK DRAMA

Paris: While Gareth Pugh doesn’t seem to be moving away from his signature hard-edged aesthetic any time soon, he has loosened up quite a bit over the past two seasons, introducing more wearable looks and relaxing his silhouettes. Pugh continues the positive trajectory this season with flowing wide-leg pants and a fluid asymmetrical coat with frayed edges. Balancing out looser pieces were sharply cut looks for which Pugh is known. This season, he used neoprene-backed leather to create textural ribbed pieces that were sculpted into dimensional shapes, some with molded panels that stood up around the neck. The chevron-pieced coats that have become a signature item for the designer returned in smooth black leather. The collection closed with a display of Pugh’s craftsmanship. Spiderweb crocheted coats with swooping asymmetric hemlines reiterated the goth undercurrent, and tiny silver chains were sewn horizontally onto dresses and pants, and even dripped from models’ fingernails. As the designer continues to evolve, his collections become increasingly wearable, cohesive and appealing.

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