Gareth Pugh

Paris: For S/S 12, Pugh paraded a bevy of models protected by plasticine latticework jackets, shift dresses, sleeves, wedge boots, and even muzzle collars, all pulled straight from the pages of a sci-fi novel. This disquieting effect struck a balance between armored and bound, a contrast that proved the show’s central riddle. Had Pugh outfitted these models for battle or restrained them against their will? The designer never answered this question, and further complicated things by showing a stream of body-con shift dresses featuring squared shoulders, as well as leather trousers, all in a futuristic palette of black and white. For the final look, Pugh showed an iridescent shift dress with matching leggings, toped off by an opaque and impenetrable teardrop shaped helmet that perfectly captured the show’s central debate between protection and restriction.  –Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Armored meets body-con

Color: Black / White / Eggplant

Key Items: Cage Jackets and dresses / Hooded capes / Two Tone Leggings/Billowy Striped Dress / Cut out Jacket / Body-con sheaths

Materials: Neoprene / Leather / Mesh

Print + Patterns: Stripes / Lattice

Details + Trim: Armor / Bound edges / Sharp shoulders / Exposed zippers / Hoods / Funnel neck / Scarf points

Accessories + Footwear: Bondage Wedges / Muzzles / Plastic teardrop helmets

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