May 07, 2018 | By Lizzy Bowring
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Milan: Gabriele Colangelo is one of the few young designers who has emerged from Milan’s deeply rooted fashion tradition. He has found success in paying homage to Italy’s rich textile heritage while moving it forward with cutting-edge technology and fresh ideas. Modern art often serves a springboard for his innovative designs, and this season, he found a muse in the dreamy, photorealistic blurs of visual artist Gerhard Richter. A sun setting over the ocean served as the centerpiece, as Colangelo distilled the universally appealing sight through various fabric treatments: digital printing, cross-dyed threads, painstakingly placed sequins. Frothy sheers woven with bubbly silicone threads captured the sea’s white-capped waves, and dissipating jacquards depicted the passing clouds. While an impressive amount of craft was involved in each piece, the collection felt surprisingly light and fuss-free, buoyed by gossamer fabrics, a gentle color palette and crisp details like nested origami folds and fringe-like tufts of ostrich feathers. Its quiet ambition only served to underline Colangelo’s maturity and self-assured hand in creating a collection thoroughly worthy of its awe-inspiring subjects. – Nivara Xaykao
Silhouette: Trapeze / Straight
Color: Lemon meringue / Powder blue / Cobalt / Lavender
Key Items: Trapeze tunic / Boxy cropped jacket / Circle skirt / Sheer button-up shirt
Print + Pattern: Sunset over ocean
Materials: Jacquard organza / Chiffon / Cotton shirtings / Combed linen / Duchesse satin / Tissue lamé
Details + Trim: Contrast collars and French cuffs / Silicone thread / Sequins / Origami appliqués / Ostrich feathers
Accessories + Footwear: Ostrich-trimmed pumps
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