Unusual cuts and a sophisticated mix of fabrics resulted in a collection that was carefully crafted and beautiful. WGSN Director of Catwalks Lizzy Bowring reports
Milan: There were a few pleasant surprises at Milan Fashion Week, and the Gabriele Colangelo Spring collection was one of them. Colangelo, with the use of a sophisticated mix of fabrics, approached the season through the lense of an architect. Asymmetry played a masterful hand in the unusual cuts made with clean precision where graphically opposed slits were employed exposing tufts of hair that had been inspired by the African kente (a type of silk and cotton fabric made of interwoven cloth strips) Colangelo’s carefully crafted version was made from silk threads an yet resembled tufts of fur.
This meticulous attention to detail appeared in the different weights of fabric that looked like they had been fused together – silk plisse sheaths combined with velour, geometric prints juxtaposed against lightweight silks. Although the silhouette was long and lean with clean-cut lines, it was also very feminine with many of the shapes layered in the natural soft hues of Colangelo’s delicate palette. Beguiling, and intricately beautiful.
Theme: Layered graphics mixed with handcrafted appeal.
Key items: Sheath dresses, Plisse dress, Tunic top, Slip dress, All-in-one, Closureless coat, White shirt, Mid-calf pencil skirt.
Colour: Pale lilac, Copper, turquoise, plum, mustard, white, black, khaki.
Print and pattern: Colour-blocking, geometric piecing, graphically displaced zigzag.
Trims and materials: Organza plisse, velvet, “shaggy fur”, cotton, silk, oversized buttons, elongated ties, lace.
Footwear and accessories: Multi textured flat sandals, tufted fur bags.
MFW FIX: The latest shows. The most detailed catwalks reports. Every. Single. Picture. From. Every. Single. Show. Sound good? Join WGSN.
NEED TREND INFO FAST? Check out WGSN’s YouTube for our latest episodes of Trend Minute.