May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Milan: Gabriele Colangelo’s Spring collection was a sophisticated and graphic interpretation of the designer’s artistic aesthetic, full of clean silhouettes as well as splattered ombré fades and directional transparency. F/W 13’s craftier look was no less artistic, but it was somehow more approachable, particularly the nubby, hand-knit wool pieces with raw, natural fringe in creamy tones. Touches of shredding as well as sheer stripes were considered and special; particularly applied to double breasted felt miniskirts or gorgeous mink tops, but the swirls of Colangelo’s astrakhan furs did not translate as an embossing treatment for shiny satin. In fact, these items were at their best when they absorbed, rather than caught the light, and the presentation featured enough pleasingly matte options to declare this season a rich success.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Elongated / Boxy / Slim & tapered / Wrapped
Color: Cream / White / Gunmetal / Wine / Copper / Mink / Black / Banana cream
Key Items: Double breasted menswear overcoats / Sheer stand collar blouses / Slim pintucked trousers with sheer ombré treatments / Wrap miniskirts / Handknit cashmere tops / Sleeveless duster coats / Mink shell tops / Slim suiting
Materials: Wool / Sheer nylon / Embossed wools / Satin / Cashmere / Mink or astrakhan furs / Felt / Leather / Chiffon / Gabardine
Print + Pattern: Subtle tonal tiger stripes / Slim stripes
Details + Trim: Stand collars / Sheer ombré / Raw fringe / Sheer stripes / Epaulettes / Distressed finishes
Accessories + Footwear: Futuristic boxy clutches with hand straps / Flat Chelsea boots with snakeskin cap toes / Snakeskin accordion clutch bags / Leather gloves
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