Feb 24, 2017 | By Lizzy Bowring
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THE DECONSTRUCTED CUBIST
Milan: Crisply directional, Gabriele Colangelo synthesized a number of traditional Asian silhouettes into his S/S 13 collection, from winged sleeve kimono tunics cinched tightly at the waist to narrowly tapered ankle length geisha skirts. Luckily, none of the references were too direct and the emerging designer continued to refine his love of surface textures by experimenting with strips of abstract patchworking and contrast bib fronts, both of which were intriguing details when applied to rigid organza shift dresses and strict pencil skirts. Colangelo’s deconstructed cubism worked best when he stuck to the clean colorblocked lines of boxy day dresses and stovepipe trousers, but a degraded paint roller stroke effect was gorgeously abstract, especially when infused with hints of shimmering lurex. Undeniably artistic and surprisingly serene, Spring proved this young talent remains one to watch in Milan. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Round & tapered / Boxy & flared / Rectangular
Color: White / Navy / Cobalt / Cherry red / Pumpkin / Grey
Key Items: Boxy jackets with winged sleeves / Two-tone sleeveless tops / Elongated shift dresses / Bandeau tops / Geometric tapered trousers / Tunic dresses / Sheer pencil skirts
Materials: Lurex / Chiffon / Stretch jersey / Linen / Satin / Crisp organza
Print + Pattern: Splatter prints / Colorblocking / Stripes / Geometric graphics / Abstract paint roller strokes
Details + Trim: Contrast piping / Bib fronts / Winged sleeves Embroidery / Patchwork / Slits / Rectangular sequins
Accessories + Footwear: Simple modern sandals / Portfolio clutches
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