Gabriele Colangelo

Milan: A talent to watch on the Milan fashion roster, Cabriele Colangelo took a stark approach to F/W 12, limiting himself to a neutral palette broken with vibrant crimson.  The designer’s narrow color scope allowed him to continue previous experiments with surface effects such as gorgeous degraded, mottled wool and ombré patent leather. But the recycling stopped there and Colangelo put aside the feminine silhouettes of his past, choosing molded Balenciaga shapes for nipped-waist jackets, notched tunic tops and bubble dresses. Matched sets looked particularly futuristic topped with cropped shrugs or edged in swaths of cracked leather, while several versions of the ubiquitous peplum were overly voluminous. Modern but seemingly organic, Colangelo’s latest was an intriguingly artistic vision of a powerfully coordinated wardrobe. —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Cocoon / Slim / Fitted / Oversized / Hourglass

Color: Black / White / Avocado / Silver / Crimson / Peach

Key Items: Cocoon coats / Slim trousers / Turtlenecks / Nipped waist overcoats / Short sleeved tunic tops / Molded hourglass tops / Cropped jackets / Strapless sheath dresses

Materials: Wool / Fur / Felt / Satin / Brocade / Silk / Bouclé / Leather

Print + Pattern: Stripes / Colorblocking  / Ombré / Abstract swirls

Details + Trim: Fur collars / Sequins / Leather coatings / Degraded finishes / Notch collars

Accessories + Footwear: Ankle boots / Loafers / Slim leather belts / Fitted caps / Hard clutches


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