May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Milan: A talent to watch on the Milan fashion roster, Cabriele Colangelo took a stark approach to F/W 12, limiting himself to a neutral palette broken with vibrant crimson. The designer’s narrow color scope allowed him to continue previous experiments with surface effects such as gorgeous degraded, mottled wool and ombré patent leather. But the recycling stopped there and Colangelo put aside the feminine silhouettes of his past, choosing molded Balenciaga shapes for nipped-waist jackets, notched tunic tops and bubble dresses. Matched sets looked particularly futuristic topped with cropped shrugs or edged in swaths of cracked leather, while several versions of the ubiquitous peplum were overly voluminous. Modern but seemingly organic, Colangelo’s latest was an intriguingly artistic vision of a powerfully coordinated wardrobe. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Cocoon / Slim / Fitted / Oversized / Hourglass
Color: Black / White / Avocado / Silver / Crimson / Peach
Key Items: Cocoon coats / Slim trousers / Turtlenecks / Nipped waist overcoats / Short sleeved tunic tops / Molded hourglass tops / Cropped jackets / Strapless sheath dresses
Materials: Wool / Fur / Felt / Satin / Brocade / Silk / Bouclé / Leather
Print + Pattern: Stripes / Colorblocking / Ombré / Abstract swirls
Details + Trim: Fur collars / Sequins / Leather coatings / Degraded finishes / Notch collars
Accessories + Footwear: Ankle boots / Loafers / Slim leather belts / Fitted caps / Hard clutches
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