Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Milan: Gabriele Colangelo has been known to experiment with fabrics, and this season the designer mixed mediums to create hairy textures, sparkly finishes and patchy surfaces. Collaged wovens featuring abstract patterns were inspired by Italian painter Alberto Burri. Burri, whose paintings seemed also to have inspired the collection’s color palette, worked with unusual materials like tar, burlap and pumice. Silhouettes were simple; sheath dresses and exquisitely tailored suitings dominated the assortment. The son of a furrier, Colangelo also skillfully crafted outerwear out of sheared astrakhan and shearling. Pieced constructions made for new garment shapes, and metallic details added interest to several looks.
Color: Black / Gunmetal / Bright white / Dark red / Deep teal / Nude / Nutmeg / Dusty peach / Navy / Burnt coral
Key Items: Sheath dress / Slim, creased ankle pant / Cropped jacket / Teddy bear coat / Minimalist suit / Pencil skirt / Woven tee
Materials: Astrakhan / Bouclé / Wool and silk suitings / Gossamer / Shearling / Collaged, mixed media wovens / Silk crepes / Nylon
Details + Trim: Pieced constructions / Contrast collars and lapels / V-necks / Trompe L’oeil peplums and overskirts / Hidden closures / Self belts / Metallic collar trims / Low-cut backs / Contrast back panels / Dropped waists / High-low hems / Draped backs / Self-belts
Accessories + Footwear: Extra-short, thumbless gloves / Pumps with ankle straps / Large clutches
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