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Gabriele Colangelo

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ETHEREAL + MOODY

Milan: Inspired by the moody work of photographer Wolfgang Tillmans, Gabriele Colangelo presented a soulful collection that showed he is well on his way to becoming part of Milan’s next generation of great designers. The innovative fabrics that he experimented with for fall became even more distinctive this time around, with matte cottons morphing into sheer organzas for an ombré effect. Colangelo let the materials do the talking for the most part, cutting with clean lines for sheaths, slim suits and kimono-inpsired coats. Lighter-weight pleated trousers – one white version paired with a wrapped jacket – looked easy and chic. Pure white and soft neutrals moved into midnight blue, working well with the ethereal mood, and a pop of coral red added a lively touch. A standout chiffon dress with a blotchy print had beading and mesh filament embellishments on an underlayer, giving off a dull glow – a perfect example of the dark yet dreamy feel that Colangelo created this season.

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