May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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RAW + POLISHED
Milan: Citing rocks and erosion as the inspirations behind his F/W collection, Gabriele Colangelo didn’t stray from a stony palette of gray, taupe, tan, sand and pewter. But regardless of the humble reference, the hues were exciting, and the color combinations brilliant. There were both matte and shiny surfaces, and many garments had sheer encasements that added an extra nuance of tint and finish. Ironically, most of the pieces looked weightless, as if these rocks were made from vapor. Narrow belts at the waist worked to tame and anchor the voluminous boulder-like shapes, created by rumpled flannels, crinkled leathers, double-faced furs and silk organzas. Necklines and collars were dramatic, many in stiff stand-away cowls, or unstructured shawl lapels. Fabric edges were left raw, enhancing the feeling of weightlessness, and details like incisions made in the chiffon overlay of one dress added to the earthy-edgy feel to the feminine silhouettes. Simple rocks may have been Colangelo’s starting point, but his artistic eye and artisanal skill elevated them to polished gems.
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