Jan 17, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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Last week G-Star invited us to preview their ready-to-wear F/W 13 collection in Berlin. Held as part of Bread & Butter, the runway show showcased the Dutch denim labels highlights of their multifaceted brand.
Last Tuesday evening (the opening day of BBB), G-Star presented their seasonal runway showcase to the international press and industry attendees of BBB. Unlike previous seasons, G-Star presented the F/W 13 range offsite from Tempelhoff airport, instead opting for the raw space of St. Agnes-Kirche church in Berlin’s hip Kreuzberg district. In typical style, the presentation featured the signature elements that you come to expect from the Dutch denim giant — a star studded front row, live performances, technical denim craftsmanship, as well as an unexpected return of their latest RAW icon.
Collection stylist, Remco de Nijs opened the show with an introduction to the S/S 13 campaign, The Art of RAW. Rather than the usual static photos of previous years, G-Star delivered an animated video showcasing the denim manufacturing process with a custom created track from electronic ravebot, Skrillex. Below is a teaser, with the full campaign to be released on Feb. 15, 2013.
Other show elements were live music performances by Dutch singer/songwriter Anne Soldaat and a ballet performance. Halfway through the runway show, cinema legend Michael Madsen (Reservoir Dogs, Kill Bill, Sin City) made an unexpected guest appearance by reciting one of his poems. Madsen closed the reading by screaming out “RAW” as a nod to the collection. G-Star has a history of celebrating RAW icons and presenting live art interventions in its runway shows. G-Star’s portfolio of “icons” also includes Dennis Hopper and Benicio Del Toro.
While most of the attendees had previewed the collection earlier in the day at G-Star’s compound at BBB, it was a chance for Pierre Morisset and the team to demonstrate their passion for denim craftsmanship and the unlimited possibilities of raw denim. Key themes included 3-D denim designs, the exploration of new silhouettes, and experiments in fabric weight and color.
G-Star evolved its signature 3-D denim construction techniques with the introduction of the Charlie pant, A-Crotch, and denim jackets with 3-D constructed sleeves. Heavy fabrics, including denim (20 oz. jackets and pants) and canvas was used, but also rich wools. For women, it was all about bold and wide tops contrasted against slim bottoms, or slim tops mixed loose denim fits. A range of the brands distinctive denim silhouette’s like A-line jackets, shrunken coats, and modern cut denim pant designs were also highlighted.
One key theme found throughout the Men’s collection was a new type of blue color called Mazarine (an intense, almost purple blue). The reference took inspiration from a research trip to Japan, where the designers came across Toile de Chine, a fabric that pre-dates denim. This was translated into faithful reproductions of work jackets and drop-crotch trousers modeled on Chinese workmen’s uniforms from the turn of the 20th-century.
In addition to the G-Star RAW mainline, the presentation also included a broad range of exclusive tailored items from the label’s premium sub-brands. Included were RAW Essentials and the RAW Correct Line, as well as concept pieces from the seasonal collaboration with acclaimed designer, Marc Newson.
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